Friday April 12, 2024
... DENIM DREAMS ...
Denim is one of my all time favourite fabrics to use in garments. I’m quite the ‘country girl’ and it is great for skirts, jackets, shorts, and jeans of course! This year I’m planning on making my own pair of jeans that fit well. I’ve bought several Indi patterns, read lots of reviews/blogs, have a much used, favourite pants fitting book (two editions of it!), a new Palmer & Pletch book just on jeans fitting … and lots of denim to play with! You see, I’m 6’ tall, and my ‘changed’ body shape thanks to ‘the years’ … makes getting a pair of readymade jeans that are long enough … and fit great, just a dream! I’m up for the challenge … ‘Winter is Coming”! This week’s featured foot, Jeans Foot #8 will be getting a workout!
A very dear friend of mine, Marjorie, also a Bernina lover, suggested a Denim skirt pattern to me some years ago now (Itch to Stitch – Quebec Skirt) … and it’s a great pattern, fits well, comfy elastic waist … and I had fun topstitching the seams, and ‘embellishing’ the pockets with a sewing machine design, using Wonderfil Fruitti thread (12wt). It’s a regularly worn item in my wardrobe.
I’d love to say that this past week I’ve been ‘stitching up a storm’ in The Studio, trying out those patterns, and more fun topstitched pocket ideas … but alas it’s been more last minute sample sewing, blogging and preparation for the Retreat and some other classes in Townsville … however, I’m excited to say one of my Tutto Overlocker Trolley Bag is packed ready with just a few easy projects (no overlocker!) to make whilst I’m on Retreat, and not in teaching mode. Sewing Machines and accessories will be last minute things to pack into the car. ‘Journey Cut Create’ will be ‘sew’ much fun again!
... Did You Know? ...
Not all Jeans/Denim Needles are the same
On our Domestic sewing machines, we use the 130/705H Needle System, however all needles are NOT the same!
Different sizes (thicknesses), eyes, tips and coatings all work together to give you the best stitch possible with the thread/technique of your choice. So this week working with denim, which is a very durable fabric due to its special twill weave, I chose to use a Bernina Jeans Needle. I do have quite a selection of needles here in The Studio, and I’m particular about changing them frequently … like every project gets a new needle!
The Jeans needle with its reinforced blade, penetrates thick woven fabrics, denims and quilts with minimum needle deflection, reduced risk of needle breakage and fewer skipped stitches. A Denim Twin needle is also available.
Schmetz manufactures the sewing and embroidery needles that are used in all BERNINA machines. The SCHMETZ Jeans/Denim needle has a modified medium ball point and a reinforced blade. The advanced point design is a SCHMETZ exclusive.
The BERNINA Jeans Needle, (even though manufactured as I said before by Schmetz), has a sharp point along with the reinforced blade. Same Jeans ‘name’ – different point depending on Brand. They are available from your preferred Bernina Dealer in packets of Size 70, 80, 90, 100 and an Assorted pack as below.
I’ve used a sharp point for denim sewing (and sometimes embroidery) for many years, and thankfully Bernina Jeans Needles, continue to be just this way.
Whatever the brand, the choice as always, is up to you. The reinforced blade is important!
... ‘Essentially’ Straight Stitch ...
Jeans Foot #8/#8D
The needle opening of Jeans Foot #8 can accommodate stitch widths of up to 1mm. (See ‘Foot’note at end of post.) However, wider stitches may result in the needle hitting the foot and breaking. The slim groove or thread recess underneath the foot enables thick threads to pass through smoothly, reducing the chances of skipped stitches when sewing reinforced seams or topstitching. It’s essentially a straight stitch foot, which allows you to stitch from very heavy, to light weight fabrics with no issues, due to the extra stability for the needle by having a single needle hole.
Options available for the foot – It’s available in a regular version suitable for all models and a ‘D’ version designed for models equipped with the Dual Feed function. When using this foot, change out to a Straight Stitch plate, and select that plate in the Security Settings. If you wanted to use a very narrow zigzag stitch (max 1.0mm), you should choose a 5.5mm Stitch Plate, and then select that plate in the Security Setting area. It’s all about your options … and what you tell the machine!
Foot #8/#8D had 2 different techniques to stitch out.
... This Week’s Foot Highlights or Challenges ...
‘Sewing Heavy Layers’ – literally a ‘straight forward’ sample as I sewed through 10 layers of denim with ease! I had put in a new Jeans Needle size 110/18 before I started, (larger size due to amount of layers) and I’m sure I could have added two to four more layers easily. It was a midweight denim and I used Wonderfil Tutti Thread (50wt) in the needle and bobbin.
‘Topstitching’ – and I changed to Wonderfil Spagetti thread (12wt) through the needle (larger needle meant a larger eye too!) and a SL of 3.5, – auto needle threader worked a treat! Love my B790PRO ! Tutti thread remained in the bobbin. I stitched from the right side of the sample, and used the Height Compensation Tool to get over the thick ‘hump’ … perfect length stitching all the way!
The feature /benefit that I’m loving this last week, is the Needle threader on my machines, especially the automatic one on the B790PRO. Needle sizes 75 and above can be threaded easily, however Size 70 and below require manual threading on all Bernina models. The combination of a Size 110 Jeans needle and the thicker Spagetti thread proved no issue at all!
... A Little Something Extra ...
Another eBook and Tool Tip combined!
Another great eBook for you to add to your ‘reference stash’ – and if it’s just a digital copy you keep … it won’t take up valuable fabric shelf space !
The title is actually ‘Performing Denim Jeans Repairs Using the Bernina 480’, however this eBook is not just for that model … fabulous information and photos for using the Height Compensation Tool, mending and hemming jeans.
Here is a link to the ‘Performing Denim Jeans Repairs Using the Bernina 480’ eBook…
Bernina’s Foot of the Month April 2024 *
is the Ruffler Foot #86 – 20% off – contact your preferred Bernina Dealer for this fabulous offer … it really is a lot of fun! I’ll be covering this foot later in the Blog.
*Australia and New Zealand Promotion Only – ends … 30th April, 2024 …
and 20% off other feet and accessories!
From 6th April through until 12th May (while stocks last) Bernina are having ‘Your BIG DAY Sale’ … and there are some great specials on selected Bernina and Bernette sewing machines … as well as the 20% off Bernina and Bernette feet and accessories ... perfect time to add to your collection! Here’s a link to the online brochure …
Chat again Friday,
‘Foot’note:
Jeans Foot #8 provides a method for sewing knit fabrics with seams that can be pressed open. The foot’s tiny opening on the sole, supports the fabric during needle penetration, reducing the likelihood of skipped stitches and ensures a secure hold on the knit material. This will then result in smoother sewing of knit seams.
Also, whilst mending seams on knit garments here at home (using this foot), I use Super Stretch Stitch #11 which is like a tiny ‘sawtooth’ shaped stitch, building in a bit of stretch needed for a knit seam. The default stitch width of 0.8 of course is within the limit of this foot’s requirements. Change out to a 5.5mm Stitch Plate to accommodate this stitch.