Friday 28th February, 2025
... FAREWELL FEBRUARY ...
So, today we ready ourselves to ‘Farewell February’, as tomorrow in comes March, thankfully with 3 more days in the month to get things done!
Sewing, family and class planning took up every moment of my week, and there was not a spare ‘down day’ for me at all. I’d finished the novel I was reading early in the week, and as there were no more library books to start, I popped on my headphones and indulged in an Audible book whilst I was sewing as well as when I was driving to the Gold Coast for a little visit to Gemma and Bobby. I’d finished her three scrub tops (Fairy Bread, Very Hungry Caterpillar and Winnie the Pooh) so ‘express delivery’ meant at least an hour of listening.
Most of my garment making requires the use of different feet to get the best finish. This week the Gathering Foot #16 (both sizes) were given an ‘outing’ to ease in the excess on the sleeve heads as I set them into the armscyes. I had three different machines running, the L890 for finishing the edges, the B435 threaded up with dark pink thread, and the B990 threaded up with white. Each of the sewing machines needed a different #16 foot as one has 9mm maximum stitch width (B990) and the other 5.5mm maximum stitch width B435).
Here’s a quick photo roundup of why I use this foot instead of just pinning the sleeve in and working the ease out as I sew – and these photos show how to do it without the #16 foot line of stitching.
Enter Foot #16, and here’s the Pooh Bear sleeves mid preparation (forgot to take photos of the Fairy Bread Sleeve progression at this point), and you can see how much that line of stitching has changed the size of the edge of the sleeve top. I sew that ‘easing line’ just inside the seam allowance. SL 3.5
I then pinned the sleeve into the armscye, and stitched it into place, just outside the first line of stitching. SL 2.5
Here’s the finished sleeve, without any puckers whatsoever!
Look back on the Gathering Foot #16 post if you want to read all about it again.
It’s easy to find the post if you go to the HOME PAGE and use the ‘Search’ Function at the top right hand side of the screen, simply type in ‘Gathering Foot #16’.
More about my visit next week, a little mending job whilst I was there, some cute photos of Bobby, and hopefully a photo of Gemma in one of the scrub tops. Those three were #’s 21, 22 and 23 that I have made her!
Here’s the box of leftover fabrics from each of them … think I need a larger box!
... Ease and Precision ...
Lap Seam Feet #70 and #71
These two feet are unlike any other Bernina presser feet when it comes to the toes. The right hand toe is square in shape and acts as a guide for the folded edge of the fabric as the seam is stitched. A ‘scoop’, as it is described in the Big Book of Feet, is located at the front of the left toe and holds the lap part of the seam in place whilst it is stitched down with a second row of stitching.
The groove or ‘channel’ underneath the foot is near to the size of the finished lap seam, and therefore hugs the ‘lap’ as it is stitched. Lap Seam Foot #70 has a 4mm channel with only a straight stitch option, and Foot #71 has an 8mm channel, with several needle positions to the left being able to be selected.
Options available for these feet – Both are available in a regular version (non coded) suitable for all models.
Foot #70 and #71 had 3 different techniques to stitch out, including using the foot for binding the edge of a quilt.
... This Week’s Foot Highlights or Challenges ...
‘Flat-Felled Seams’ – Used Foot #70 for this sample, and SL 2.5 – and stitched out on my B435. First sample I did I had right sides together, which of course meant the finished seam was on the wrong side. I have used it this way when doing seams inside a garment, almost like an ‘all in one’ Hong Kong seam finish, with a top stitched finish. Anyway, redid the sample, with wrong sides together – a very narrow finish ideal for finer fabrics.
‘Heavy Topstitching’ – Changed to Foot #71 for this one as I had denim as my sample fabric. First seam was sewn with regular thread and a size 80 needle, and I should have changed to a thread that matched the fabric colour. Then I changed to a Topstitch #90 needle and Wonderfil Fruitti 12wt variegated thread on the top. Stitched down well, and then sewed back over the first row with the heavier thread to finish off. With denim I feel it is essential to press well after the first seaming row. SL 3.5 NP -2
‘Binding’ – I have used this technique quite a bit and find it usually finishes well on both sides of the binding. First I sew down the binding to the back of the quilt (with a #50 Walking foot and 6mm seam allowance), then press the binding out, and change over to a #71 foot. SL 3.5 NP -2
The folded edge of the binding slides beautifully within the foot, and here’s a little video I took showing how it works. Mind you, my media skills are way less advanced than my sewing skills! Hard to sew with one hand, whilst holding my phone!
Summary: Choose the foot depending on the weight of the fabric and size of the finished seam you require. A little practice is needed on corners of quilts to get a neat, square finish.
... A Little Something Extra ...
Binding Techniques eBook
This is a great resource for all types of binding, and covers even the Binder Attachments which I will be blogging about soon. Please note that in the section relating to Foot #71, they state in the eBook to cut your strips at 2 ½” wide – I find that 2” is a better finish, (the Big Book of Feet had that measurement as well) and usually results in nice, neat stitches along the edge of the binding, front and back.
Now on that note, if your strips are cut at 2 ¼” or 2 ½” wide, you will usually not get any stitches showing on the binding at the back, therefore choose a thread to match your backing fabric, not the binding. Fabric cut at 2 ¼” wide is my preferred width, if I use the Handlook Appliqué Stitch #1316 Mirrored SL 1.5 SW 1.5 NP -5. In other words, there are many options for you to try – and I encourage you to have a play with this technique.
... A Little Reminder ...
Bernina’s Accessory of the Month February 2025 *
is the Overlocker Gathering Foot which makes attaching a gathered layer to a flat layer so very easy, or just gathering a single layer whilst neatening the edges at the same time – 20% off for just the next two days – contact your preferred Bernina Dealer for this fabulous offer.
*Australia and New Zealand Promotion Only – ends 1st March 2025 …
Chat again next Friday,
