Friday 21st February, 2025
... SIXTIES AND BEYOND ...
Here we go again! It’s really getting a lot closer to the finish line for me with the Bernina ‘Big Book of Feet Challenge’ I set myself over 12 months ago! 9 more posts to go – after this one!
Yes, the first foot post with samples sewn was actually 16th February 2024. Looking back on it, oh my gosh, I had 17 different samples to sew that week!
Today’s is post #45 and I’ve got just 5 samples to sew as I dive into the set of Hemmer feet numbers 61 to 69. There are actually 7 of them, (no #65 or #67).
Before I get into this week’s post for real, I thought I’d just give you a ‘heads up’ on the next few posts. I’m busier than usual at the moment with lots of piles of sewing to do, as well as kits to cut and package up for classes I’m teaching, before I head off up north for a few weeks to visit family, friends, and spread my love of Bernina on the way. Therefore, the next 3 or 4 posts will be shorter as I’ll be sewing the samples and of course noting any challenges etc, but not adding too much else in the way of social, or technical stuff. Well, that’s the plan anyway. I’ll get back to a few longer posts to finish off the Challenge once I return from my little road trip. Sorry Jenny K, you’ll have a very short ‘cuppa and chat’ with me on Fridays for a little bit. Promise I’ll be back to ‘chatty’ me afterwards.
In the meantime, put your real feet up and let’s do this Friday chat thing!
... The Studio Update ...
Now, it sure has been a while since I posted an update on The Studio. Re-ordering and delay times with materials (holiday break for some suppliers), uncertain weather (it is the wet season here in Queensland!) and that precious commodity of ‘time’ to do it all, were the reasons behind the lack of updates.
Last week with the skies clearing to sunny days again, the delivery of the roofing panels and Ben having a long weekend meant … a busy weekend for him, lots of moving and lifting, ladders and long outdoor brooms protected with towels to get them in just the right place, (I am constantly amazed at his ingenuity when he’s doing work around the property), then screwing down the panels to arrive at where it is this week. I didn’t take pics of Ben working … not sure if he’d appreciate that! Haha
I’ll write up a more detailed account of the concept to finished project, once it is all completed.
Here’s how it was about 3 years ago – and then the ‘progress shot’ this week.
There are still retaining walls, and paving to be laid before Ben’s finished. Afterwards there is the fun part for me of ‘curating’ the patio. Watch this space!
... Rolled Hems and Finishes ...
Hemmer Feet #61, 62, 63, 64, 66, 68 and 69
Why so many Hemming Feet? … because there are so many different combinations of hemming techniques, fabric weights, and finished edge looks you can achieve! The seven feet included in this week’s post are all designed to turn and stitch in one operation, using either a straight, zigzag or decorative stitch to secure the hem into place. Being equipped with the right feet will instantly improve the quality of your work.
Five of these presser feet make narrow, double-turned hems so very easy and quick to sew, with hems ranging from 2mm to 6mm and work on very fine, fine or medium weight fabrics.
The other two produce a sturdy hem, which depending on your choice of stitch, creates a scalloped or shell hem. They create a slightly rounded hem due to the deeper and rounder channel under the feet.
There is a comprehensive table in the Big Book of Feet to use as a guide to choosing the best foot for the task. Here is another version of a table that featured in a We All Sew Post some time back.
The feet are very similar and function in the same manner. There are two ways to distinguish the use of each foot – finished size of the hem (the channel on the sole shows the size) and the size of the needle opening (straight or zigzag/decorative stitch). The channel on the sole of Foot #63 fades out before it reaches the back of the foot, allowing the foot to follow a curve, making it useful for edges found on shirt tails, necklines and round tablecloths.
Options available for the feet – They are available in a regular version suitable for all models, and a selected maximum stitch width of 5mm, except for # 62 and #64 which are suitable only for straight stitch.
Feet #61, 62, 63, 64, 66, 68 and 69 had 5 different techniques to stitch out.
... This Week’s Foot Highlights or Challenges ...
‘Turned and Stitched Hem’ –
Hem #1 – Foot #61 2mm hem and fine pale pink fabric – Zigzag SW 3.5 SL 2.0
Hem #2 – Foot #62 2mm hem other edge of fine pale pink fabric – Straight Stitch SL 2.5
Hem #3 – Foot #62 2mm hem pale yellow homespun – Straight Stitch SL 2.5
Hem #4 – Foot #64 4mm hem pale yellow homespun – Straight Stitch SL 2.5
Hem #5 – Foot #66 6mm hem cream printed cotton – Straight Stitch SL 3.0 NP -5
All hems worked well when starting with a few straight stitches, removing fabric and using those long tails as ‘helpers’ to insert the edge into the ‘scroll’ on the foot.
‘Corners’ – following the instructions re direction to sew each edge, certainly made it easier to stitch, as less finished edges to sew over. I found staystitching the edges first, to help also. Edges were best when they followed the warp grain (lengthwise) of the fabric as there was then less stretching.
‘Curves’ – Staystitching the edge is essential here as it prevents most of the stretching that may occur if you had not completd this step. This foot has a shorter groove underneath which helps when sewing curves. No slit in hte foot for the thread.
‘Lace-Trimmed Hem’ – I’ve used this technique quite a bit over the years and my go-to foot is usually #64, however please note that in the Big Book of Feet there is a typo in this section where it states 4mm Straight Stitch Hemmer #63 … should ready #64. A little dab of glue under the lace always help keep it in place, as the edge of the fabric is hemmed over the top. I used straight stitch SL 3.0 and I tried out Foot #63 for my next sample, selecting a decorative stitch for the first edge. Stitch #413 (little row of hearts) SW 3.0 SL 1.7 First row I stitched with the default needle position of centre, and the second with NP +5 – I liked that finish the best!
‘Shell Edge’ – Foot #68 2mm hem does a lovely job with Stitch #3 – Vari-overlock at the default setting, giving a rounded hem edge. I used Stitch #9 for the second half of the edge but found it not as nice an edge.
Foot #69 4mm hem also was a lovely finish, and I used this often many years ago when stitching hems on bias cut skirts. When I changed the top tension to 5.5 it gave a nicer edge as well.
Summary: Lots of choices in Hemmer feet mean no matter if your fabric is ultra light to medium weight, there’s a foot to suit! Some will give you a soft rounded edge, whilst others result in a crisp flat edge. Do I have a favourite? Well, the most used ones in my foot stash of hemmer feet would have to be #63 and #64, followed closely by #66 and #68 – oh I can never pick just ONE favourite!!
Whilst changing stitches between the initial ‘guiding straight stitch’ and then either zigzag or the decorative stitches, I found the Stitch History to be a great feature … as always! The previous setting were held between the sample sew outs. I talked about Stitch History way back in Foot #23’s post. On the B990, this is where you find the Stitch History …
... A Little Reminder ...
Bernina’s Accessory of the Month February 2025 *
is the Overlocker Gathering Foot which makes attaching a gathered layer to a flat layer so very easy, or just gathering a single layer whilst neatening the edges at the same time – 20% off for the month of February – contact your preferred Bernina Dealer for this fabulous offer.
*Australia and New Zealand Promotion Only – ends 1st March 2025 …
Chat again next Friday,
