Friday March 15, 2024
... THE BEST LAID PLANS ...
Planning, preparation and ‘Grand’parenting filled in my time this week, with a busier than normal routine, as Sally and Ben took time out and headed away for a week’s holiday. Picture ocean views, clear skies (mostly), outdoor hikes, swimming, relaxing, no cooking, and no kiddos! Yes, they had a great time.
Back here at home, once the children returned to school after the weekend, I set up my laptop in a different position, back down in the house at the dining table. This meant I could work later into the evening, whilst still being around for the young people.
I typed up, and printed out all the Sample Setting forms for the rest of the feet I’ll be working on for the Blog. Then trimmed them all, and set aside to place into their little pouches for reference. Samples were already cut up to stitch as far as Foot #10, so I continued along until I had prepared up to Foot #20. I find that doing a ‘batch’ of jobs is much more productive. I always have so many ‘projects’ on the go, so having them organised is the only way I get so much done … or anything done at times!
... ‘Gathering’ at The Studio ...
This week, the ‘gathering’ was at another place! My stitching buddies, Sandy, Trish, Deb and I, meet up once a fortnight in a lovely little place not too far from where Sandy lives. Forgot to take a photo of us together … but below is a photo of the lovely little Beechwood Buddies gathering place.
‘Life happens’ there too, and Deb was unable to join us this week, as she and hubby Darren had a road trip to Cowra, NSW this week for the 90th Anniversary Celebration of the ’34 Ford .. and drove down in style (with no aircon though!) … in their fabulous 1934 Coupe Hot Rod … (and yes, that sign reads Cowra Top 10!!)
Then on the weekend Sandy and hubby Miles, went up to Crows Nest for the Darling Downs VW Car Show, and came back with a trophy for Best VW Karmann Ghia for Sandy’s sweet ride, named Grace!
Ahh … those girls and their cars – such fun!! … So many different topics of conversation happen when we get together, Trish and I of course, share our Grandchildren updates (she has 3!) … and throughout it all is the friendship we share, and the love of sewing, of course. Machines often stitch along happily, whilst someone else may be Rotary cutting, pressing, English Paper Piecing or making Suffolk Puffs (that’s me when I’m not crocheting together baskets!). Oh, and sometimes nothing gets stitched … but always … lots of ideas, inspiration and fun times.
... The Studio Update ...
Although nothing happened outside this week, over the weekend I managed to sort through a box or two of old teaching materials I had packed away. It’s definitely a job I’ve been ‘procrastinating’ about doing, as I just could not decide if I was keeping it all or clearing it out. Simply downsizing was not an option I was contemplating, as it was either a ‘yes – keep’ or ‘no – don’t keep’. Might sound harsh, but space is at a premium in here, and having too much around me is sometimes a bit overwhelming. Some things are just too hard to part with just yet … here’s a pic of one of my shelves of ‘teaching stuff’ – the ‘Precut sample’ box has come in handy the last few weeks!
… Freelance/In Store teaching for years meant a lot of organisation was needed (just how much I might reveal some time later on – will need a wide angle lens ! …
... Did You Know? ...
Evolution of the Zipper
Time now to get down to the ‘sewing stuff’ I guess … and … it’s interesting to see how such a universal item today … the zipper, had such humble beginnings, and faced initial challenges in gaining commercial success.
The zipper, from Elias Howe’s 1951 “Automatic Continuous Clothing Closure” to Whitcom Judson’s 1893 “Clasp Locker”, and finally Gideon Sundback’s 1917 modern “Separate Fastener”, highlights inventors’ persistence. It seems it took until the 1930’s for fashion designers to ‘rave’ over the zipper, marking its acceptance in fashion.
Since then, many different styles of zippers have appeared on the market, and depending on what article you are creating, there appears to be a zipper for every situation almost! Here’s my bundle I take along when teaching a zipper class.
Most machines of this earlier sewing era, had only a limited range of Presser Feet for them, and stitching close to a row of zipper teeth without breaking needles, provided quite the challenge … and that’s why in the 1940’s … the zipper foot was invented!
This presser foot aimed to decrease the number of broken needles, however it still remains a common occurrence during zipper insertion, despite continuous innovation in presser feet.
The ‘central toe’ is a common feature in zipper feet, allowing for stitching close to the teeth of a zipper, and to prevent the needle from hitting the foot, some sewing machine brands require either moving the foot manually, adjusting the needle position, or both. Bernina’s zipper feet are stationary, and adjusting the needle position only, ensures smooth stitching. (See ‘Foot’note at end of post)
... Another ‘One Toe Wonder’ ...
Zipper Foot #4/#4D
With just one ‘central toe’, the zipper foot relies on changing the needle position to sew down the edges of the zipper tape, avoiding needle breakages, as mentioned before. Bernina’s stationary zipper foot ensures strong contact between the fabric and the Feed dog during sewing, enhancing stability and preventing skipped stitches, some things a sliding/adjustable foot by other manufacturers, mostly from many years ago, did not offer, something I alluded to when I mentioned design changes in feet.
Options available for the foot – It’s available in a regular version suitable for all models and a ‘D’ version designed for models equipped with the Dual Feed function. There is also a Zipper Foot #54 which has a coated sole for stitching over ‘sticky’ fabrics, but more about that one in a later post.
Foot #4/#4D had 4 different techniques to stitch out, including three techniques for zippers and then using the foot for attaching Snap Tape.
Here’s a few photos to show how they all went …
... This Week’s Foot Highlights or Challenges ...
I’ll start out with this … if using a #4D Zipper foot, remember to engage the Dual Feed feature! This is so important to remember for all ‘D’ Coded Feet … the Dual Feed feature completes the footprint of the foot, whilst sitting on its own area of Feed dog, engaging the Dual Feed System, and without it engaged, the foot may not feed evenly. It can result in puckers, tucks and generally ‘wonky’ stitching. I ‘may’ have forgotten to engage it during some sample sewing this week … it was when I looked back at my photos that the reason behind the tucks was revealed!
The Dual Feed was not engaged! The second foot photo with the blue oval on it, shows how the foot should look.
The feature /benefit that I’m loving this last week, is the Foot Recognition feature of my machines, both the B790PRO and my B590E. Has saved me a couple of broken needles over the years, I’m sure.
Bernina machines with Foot Recognition, will not allow stitching, if the needle is not in the correct position. This is my machine’s screen when I have the centre needle position selected with a #4D zipper foot – the red line means I am unable to sew in with this setting. (I touched lightly on this last week – but lots of information in The Big Book of Feet Page 7.)
Wow, I could have used this technology in a lot of my really early machines … Bernina’s Product Development over the years has astounded me! (And … I’m still ‘crushing on’ that laser light I mentioned last week!!)
Wise Words of the Week … “What new technology does is create new opportunities to do a job that customers want done” – Tim O’Reilly
... A Little Something Extra ...
Fabulous Educational Resources
Have you discovered Bernina’s eBooks yet? Fabulous, educational resources covering many areas of sewing, overlocking, embroidery, quilting and even software are available online for you to download at ‘no-cost’.
I have ‘gathered’ quite a collection here in The Studio (I printed them out and placed into folders to reference within classes), and I also have digital copies stored on my iPad, and laptop. There are links in each of them to take you to more information on the technique or product.
Here’s a link to Bernina’s ‘Just SEW It!’ Zipper Applications eBook …
... and some Tool and Habby Helper Tips ...
One of my favourite haberdashery items (yes, I have lots of favourites!) is Quilters Washaway Basting Tape. This is a GAME CHANGER in many applications! Sewing in zippers can be a challenge keeping all the layers even. It comes in a couple different widths, mostly I use the 5/6mm width size, but I have the 3mm and the 12mm width tapes also! It’s good to have all sizes on hand, for various jobs. (byannie, Clover, Dritz, Sew Easy – are just some of the brands – ask for it at your preferred Bernina Dealer/Sewing store – ensure it is ‘washaway’).
When I stitched in the Separating Zipper (between a two way stretch cotton knit and a fleecy knit) I got tucks without the tape, so I added washaway quilters basting tape between the zipper and the two way stretch knit … and voila! No tucks! … and yes, I like to challenge my choice of sample fabrics to those I would actually make a garment out of for example.
The ‘invisible sticky tape’ on the little cutter that you see in the photo (… that’s a weird statement haha), is what I use sometimes to get a nice even row of stitching on the outside – simply stick a piece down the centre seam line, and stitch along the edge! Simple, but effective tip, especially for beginner sewists.
My ‘tool I can’t do without’ when needing to shorten metal or nylon zippers, is my Zipper Nipper Pliers. They easily handle removing ‘excess zipper teeth’, before I cut the tape to the length I need. I purchased these many years ago, however I’m sure a ‘Google Search’ will give you more info and where they are available now.
That’s all the Studio sewing info to pass on this week, catch up next week for Bernina Foot #5 … the Blindstitch Foot! But first …
... A Little Reminder or Two ...
Bernina Academy
Thought I’d share the new Bernina Academy 2024 flyer that has just been released … and now you can simply Scan the QR Code here to keep up to date with all the information.
Bernina’s Foot of the Month March 2024 *
is # 35 Invisible Zipper Foot – 20% off – contact your preferred Bernina Dealer for this fabulous offer. … This foot makes inserting invisible zippers a breeze! I’ll be covering this foot later in the Blog.
*Australia and New Zealand Promotion Only – ends … 31st March 2024 …
Chat again Friday,
'Foot' note:
The Bernina Zipper Feet remain stationary while only the needle position is adjusted, keeping strong contact between the fabric and the feed dog throughout the sewing process. This foot is also a good option for techniques such as piping, topstitching and getting up close to elastics in cut-on casings.