Friday 5th July, 2024
... COLD, HARD TRUTH ...
It’s School Holidays here in Queensland at the moment, and so far we have had some bright, warm and sunny ‘outside play days’, as well as dreary, wet and cold ‘stay inside days’. As I’m writing this, today in Brisbane our maximum temperature recorded was a very cool 17 degrees, and that meant jumpers, socks and warm boots inside as I worked on the Blog.
I don’t know about you, but cold days for me are actually not very productive, as I find it hard to settle into a task. I’d rather be tucked up in bed with a book, or my crochet, and a hot cup of tea, instead of typing away on my laptop, and it’s truthfully feeling like a chore this week! Think I’m needing coffee before I can get going … and that’s the COLD, HARD TRUTH!
Yesterday I was up in the Studio ‘playing’ on my L890 machine doing some fun chain and coverstitch ‘stuff’ … and the time just flew!! I even closed the door last night without clearing up my ‘creative mess’! Today … well … it’s another story … the hours seem slow to pass, as I sit and think what to write … it’s truly not my ‘thing’ this writing, however I do hope you are enjoying it even a little bit as you read along. Do let me know … … maybe you’re like me, rather be sewing that writing about it!
So … It will be a shorter writeup this week, anyway … there were just a few samples to sew and chat about.
... Did You Know? ...
Foot Numbering Styles
How a foot is ‘numbered’ or marked, tells you which Bernina machines they will fit. The different styles of feet are not interchangeable between different generations of machines.
Here’s a quick explanation as to what their numbering styles are.
Old Generation or Legacy Bernina presser feet have a White Sticker on the shaft, with BLACK numbers. Some very early ones actually had the number stamped into the metal of the foot (no colour background). These feet fit machines that were manufactured between 1954 and the late 1990’s that is up to the Bernina Model 1630.
**Note: Gathering Foot Narrow #17 (not featured in The Big Book of Feet … however still available – pictured below) is a narrow gathering foot for older styled machines only – the number is stamped onto the foot.
New Generation presser feet have a White sticker on the shaft, with RED numbers. These are the feet that are used with all current models of machines.
Sometimes, in the run of numbers there will be a ‘gap’. This is due to some feet having been actually discontinued, and no longer available, e.g. Straight Stitch Foot #13. Teflon Foot #53 (Straight stitch) has the same features however, just a different finish on the foot.
To my knowledge, there has never been a Foot 19, 27, 28, 36, 41, 49, 58, 65, 67, 76, 79, 80, 81, 84, 85, 90, 91, 92, 94, 95, 97, 98 or 100. PHEW!!! So Mr Bernina, that leaves 23 ‘spare’ spots for you to fill with new, fabulous feet for us all!
... A Clever Foot to Save Time ...
Gathering Foot #16
Gathering long lengths of fabric, ribbon or trims is easy with this gathering foot. It can gather just one layer by placing the fabric directly under the foot. The foot does not sit evenly on the feed dogs, and this ‘unbalance’ causes the fabric to gather as it is sewn.
The foot has a Slot at the front which allows feeding of a second top layer of fabric, which would then be simultaneously stitched to the under piece as it is gathered. ** See Footnote
Options available for the foot – Two versions are available – one to fit machines with 5.5mm stitch width capability, and a larger soled one to fit the wider feed teeth of 9mm stitch width capability machines. Both feet only allow 5.5mm wide stitches, (needle opening is the same on both feet) as gathering does not require a wider stitch.
Foot #16 had 3 different techniques to discover, however there were 5 samples to stitch out.
... This Week’s Foot Highlights or Challenges ...
‘Gathering’ – as most of my sewing these days is clothing, I’m often gathering or easing pieces to fit, as it creates room in quite a few of the styles I prefer to make. The samples I sewed were mostly on quilting weight cotton.
First single layer sample – Stitch length 6 – nice gentle gather
Second single layer sample – I chose some aqua organza ribbon and gathered up the centre of it – SL 6, and sewed easily. Nice gather achieved with no other setting changes needed.
Double layer sample – SL 6 – found it too heavy to gather nicely, needed to pull up the bobbin threads.
Flat to Gather sample – SL 6 – nice gentle gather
‘Simple Shirring’ – I used a check here and simply followed along the lines – SL 6. Gathered up nicely, just stitch slowly to keep it straight. Something to note here, Big Book of Feet suggested setting for Straight Stitch Width 0 – 5mm … hmmm … thinking typo here!!! Straight stitch doesn’t have width …
‘Puffing – again a simple sample to stitch – SL 6 – nice soft gathers.
A couple of things to note with this foot, and there’s lots of tips included in the Big Book of Feet – I found having the needle down into both layers of fabric right at the beginning of stitching, keeps them together nicely, when using the gather to flat technique.
Also, it is difficult to determine just how much the fabric will reduce in length, as it will vary between light and medium weight fabrics, stitch lengths and changes in any needle tensions. The Big Book of Feet states that you cannot adjust after being stitched, however I found I could quite easily pull up the bobbin thread to increase the gather.
I always do a test sample if I am want an exact match up of lengths, but mostly I gather a longer piece than would be required, and cut off the excess after applying to the garment/item.
... A Little Something Extra ...
Another eBook full of Tips
The eBook suggestions just keep coming – and this week is one dedicated just to Gathering! A great resource to keep handy!
Bernina’s Foot of the Month July 2024 *
is Applique Foot # 23 – 20% off – contact your preferred Bernina Dealer for this fabulous offer. … and it’s not just for appliqué … This little foot is a true hero in the Studio when it comes to making piping!! I’ll be covering this foot later in the Blog.
*Australia and New Zealand Promotion Only – ends … 31st July 2024 …
Chat again next Friday,
‘Foot’note: A larger slot at the front of the wider one, does mean a larger seam allowance is possible when sewing two layers together.