Friday 14th June, 2024
... CHATS AND ‘RABBITHOLES’ ...
The week really does fly by when you know you have a deadline to meet … self-imposed as I’ve said before, however I need to keep on track … for a little while at least.
Another late night/early morning still up writing this, and I thought I’d start by showing you just what my weekly ‘blog writing’ adventure looks like … well, a picture is worth a 1000 words … I’m sure you’ll get my drift on this one!
The most challenging part for me is the actual writing and subject matter … but somehow every week it’s the chats I have with my stitching buddies that start me off.
Over many years now, my dear friend Kim Turner and I, fellow Bernina lover, Store owner and Educator (from Kimz Sewing and Patchwork Centre up at Warana on Queensland’s beautiful Sunshine Coast) have talked often about a huge variety of sewing topics and our shared great love of all things Bernina, and just this week, our chat ventured into what sewing subjects I could feature here on my blog, adding to the write ups on the samples from The Big Book of Feet. We both agreed that what we have learnt over the years, and know as sort of ‘the basics’, is often seen as new and interesting to lots of others. Kim had just read the blog on Foot #8 re Denim Needles and Topstitching. Knowing I’d be interested (in anything sewing!), she sent me a YouTube link to check out – a show labeled ‘All Gathered Up’ – The show that explores techniques seen on the Sewing Bee … and that in the Host’s words … “runs parallel with the Great British Sewing Bee”– so for over one hour, I watched this particular ‘show’ focused on Top Stitching, which he said was part of the GBSB Episode 1 of 2024, ‘The Pattern Challenge’.
Now firstly, full disclosure here … I have NEVER watched an entire episode of The Great British Sewing Bee, although a few of my fellow sewing friends have told me about it before. Maybe I should watch a few episodes? It started around 10 years ago I believe … so off to Google I went for a bit of background knowledge on it … and (news flash to me) … it’s classed as a REALITY SHOW! Even though I am not a big fan of this genre, I thought I might go down the GBSB ‘rabbit hole’ next week to see what it is all about … but first let’s get this blog finished!
... Did You Know? ...
Seam Guides Aplenty!
One of the comments in the ‘All Gathered Up’ episode that made me listen closer was the mention of seam guides for topstitching … and it dawned on me that some people, even though highly talented in their field, have not tried simple things like seam guides! Yes, the co-presenter, a Master Tailor and Couturier, said this about methods for marking lines to topstitch, and I quote from the show “… basting, chalk … or you could even use what you people use in the quilting fraternity … which is, set up a quilting bar parallel … I’ve never actually used one.”
Her comment was really not that surprising, as I’ve noticed a lot of tailors mostly use sharpened chalk markings, so I thought this week I’d chat about what I find very helpful … ‘Seam Guides’ …
There’s usually an alternative method to most techniques, and I do love an ‘accessory’ that makes it a lot easier, or faster. Here’s in The Sewing Gypsy Studio, there are many different tools or accessories to use to guide seams/topstitching/decorative stitches etc. There are guides that are attached to the back of some of my presser feet (both for sewing machines and overlocker), onto the tray/extension table/knife cover, as well as markings on the actual presser feet/stitch plates, some of which I have already written about. Almost everything I sew, has one or more of these accessories/guides used.
Sewing Machine Seam Guides ...
The Walking Foot #50 comes with both Left and Right Seam Guides, attaching at the back of the foot.
Right and Left Seam Guides are available separately, a little shorter than those supplied with the Walking Foot.
Seam Guides with Ruler/Scale are available as both Left and Right (sold together) and enable the furtherest position from the needle of any of the guides available. The markings are in both inches and centimetres.
Patchwork Seam Guide attaches to the bed of the machine and adjusts easily. Patchwork Foot #97/#97D with Guide comes with a similar guide.
Slide-on Table Seam Guide is supplied with most machines at time of purchase and slips easily onto the table and is great for larger depth hems e.g. curtains.
There is also an Adjustable Seam Guide that again attaches to the back of the foot and has a guide attachment and edge guide.
Overlocker/Cover- & Chainstitch Seam Guides ...
Overlocking Mode … Bernina L Series machines have a couple of options… for trimming off excess fabric there is one for the L450/L460 that fits on the front of the machine (in front of the foot)… and a different style one for the L850/L860/L890, fitted to the knife cover insert of the machine.
Seam Guides in Shaft … for the L850/L860 there is a Left Seam Guide, which helps keep a consistent cut off when placed against a previous seam/edge … and for the L890 only there is a ‘set’ which includes an additional Right Seam Guide to use when stitching parallel rows of either cover- or chainstitch.
The Seam Guides in Shaft are the Accessory of the Month for June 2024, and more info can be found on the Bernina Australia Website about these.
... And a Foot with an Adjustable Guide ...
Zipper Foot with Guide #14D
Like Zipper Foot #4D, Foot #14D is designed to make sewing in zippers a lot easier. It has an adjustable guide across the front of the foot, which rides right over the coils on the zip. There are 4 positions to the left, a centre position and 4 positions to the right. Ridges are spaced at 1mm intervals. The needle position will require altering so that it does not hit the foot. *See ‘Foot’note …
I’ve used it also for piping … and will add photos of how that works, in the next section.
Options available for the foot – It’s available only in a ‘D’ version designed for models equipped with the Dual Feed function. (Previous version #14 is no longer available)
Foot #14D had 4 different techniques to stitch out, and only two involved a zipper! This foot is multi-purpose as are many of my Bernina Feet.
... This Week’s Foot Highlights or Challenges ...
‘Lapped, Centered, and Separating Zippers’ – just love the adjustable guide for setting in zippers – firstly lowering foot into place, and then moving the little guide to line up with edge/seam. Each ‘notch’ marks a 1mm change, so 4 ‘clicks’ to the left, centre position and then 4 ‘clicks’ to the right. I used that favourite haby item of mine, Washaway Quilters Tape to hold the zipper into place first.
‘Exposed Zipper’ – again a straight forward sample, one I’ve used many times on bag pockets, jackets and pants pockets also. I always stitch the opening line of sewing on the facing twice, just to ensure a very stable and neat finish as I turn it through.
‘Topstitching’ – I used Triple Straight Stitch #6 with SL 4 NP +2, and sewed three lines, with the guide far left, centre and then far right – sample shows the difference.
‘Tucks’ – I stitched these lovely big tucks by marking at 1 7/8” intervals , NP -5, and guide pushed to the far right. Even gave myself a smiley sticker for this one !
No real challenges with any of the techniques, and this is a foot I have used quite a lot. It was fabulous to stitch in piping also on some cushions I ‘made to order’ a few years ago now. The self-made piping kept slipping using another foot, so I changed it over to #14D and the finish was lovely! Held it securely into place going around the corners, and when I topstitched it too! Here’s some pics … and yes used the foot to stitch in the zipper as well. Outdoor chair covers (backs and bases) and some feature cushions.
... A Little Reminder ...
Bernina Academy 2024
Class bookings are open for all the wonderful Tutors that will be appearing at Bernina Academy in September. This week I’ll share a photo of the sample for the other class I’ll be teaching … It’s Creative Embellishing with your Overlocker … everything’s supplied and included in the class costs … and you will go home with a sample booklet of techniques explored, inside this zippered bag – all made on the Bernina L890.
Head online to secure your place … lots of fun learning !
Here’s the link to Bernina Academy 2024 Class Details and Bookings
Bernina’s Foot/Accessory of the Month June 2024 *
is the Right and Left Seam Guides in Shaft for the L8 Series Overlocker and Overlocker/Coverstitch machines – 20% off – contact your preferred Bernina Dealer for this fabulous offer. … There are two options available … Left Seam Guide only for L850 and L860 machines … and Left and Right Seam Guides for L890 only
*Australia and New Zealand Promotion Only – ends … 30th June 2024 …
Chat again next Friday,
‘Foot’note: The Bernina Zipper Feet remain stationary while only the needle position is adjusted, ensuring strong contact between the fabric and the feed dog throughout the sewing process.